
Managing the Coloured Gemstones Working Group
Starting in 2015, TDi has managed the Coloured Gemstones Working Group (CGWG), a collaborative initiative by prominent brands in the gemstones and jewellery industry. Today the members of the CGWG are Chopard, Gemfields, Kering, LVMH Watches and Jewellery, the Muzo Companies, Richemont International SA, and Tiffany & Co. The CGWG aims to drive positive change within the industry. The CGWG has been working collaboratively with the technical support of TDi, on development of robust and practical resources, tools and projects, that build capability and share knowledge across the value chain, for the benefit of coloured gemstone communities and the jewellery industry at large.
Research and Publications:
- TDi was tasked by the CGWG to conduct research and produce a series of six papers addressing the intricate landscape of coloured gemstone mining and trading. The papers, collectively titled’ Ancient Crafts, Modern Challenges,’ delve into the network of commercial relationships and trading systems within the coloured gemstone industry and each paper explores a specific stage in the journey of coloured gemstones from mine to market, emphasising the individuals and businesses reliant on the industry for their livelihoods.
- The papers advocate for transparency and corporate accountability while honouring the traditions and crafts associated with coloured gemstone mining, acknowledging the relationships built over centuries. They also highlight the industry’s impact on livelihoods, small enterprises, and economies, while also addressing the challenges it poses for people and the environment.
An introduction to coloured gemstones
An introduction to the coloured gemstone industry and responsible sourcing and an overview of the articles comprising “Ancient Crafts, Modern Challenges“.

Hands that dig, hands that feed
Discover the first steps of the journey of coloured gemstones from geological formation and discovery through to mining and recovery, and insight into the potential of the coloured gemstone mining sector to catalyse sustainable development.

Perception and reality in global coloured gemstone trading
Uncover the complex trading web that enables coloured gemstones to find their way to high street boutique and the challenges of traceability, transparency and accountability in this multi-layered supply chain.

Wheels of fortune | Processing
Learn about the transformation of a gemstone from rough stone to polished jewel, a process that employs hundreds of thousands of skilled men and women using techniques that haven’t changed for centuries.

Stewardship and accountability | Retailing
More coloured gemstones are being bought than ever before, along with growing demand for greater clarity about how they are valued and their attributes disclosed. How is and should the industry adapt to shifting expectations for product stewardship and accountability?

Letting it shine | Governance
The coloured gemstone industry is an ecosystem as rich and diverse as a tropical rain forest, functioning through informal relationships established over many decades. How can expectations for standardisation, structure and systems be incorporated into this traditional sector?
